Kashmir: Into the North

          

          Hi Everybody, I hopped on a plane from Delhi to Kashmir after spending a couple days in the capital.  Ready to find out what mountain living in India really means!  

I wrote this journal entry the day I arrived and believe it is the perfect place to start! 

Saturday May 23rd

          Holy cow this is mind boggling!  I am sitting on the back deck of a beautiful old wooden houseboat on a small Indian mountain lake in the foothills of the Himalayas.  Its a cool 55F or 15C outside with a slight breeze that carries the sweet smells of the water and the echoes of a mystic chant to my cozy deck.   The chanting adds a serene spiritual vibe as it echoes like a faint song across the snow-capped mountains.  I hear an occasional fish jump but otherwise the water is still.  The chants have now turned into distant drums and light chatter as the night grows quiet.

                         

          Needless to say, I have been enjoying Kashmir so far.  Its a laid back and beautiful countryside.  I have gotten a range of impressions for the area however.  When the plane landed the first thing announced, after a warm welcome of course, was not to take any pictures of the airport because it is a defensive airbase for the military.
         As I left the airport I met my driver Reshiz who was waiting with my name on a sign.  He helped me get my luggage into an SUV and we started the 30 minute ride to the houseboat.  I was shocked to see that even after leaving the airport there were many armed military men all throughout the city!  Most seemed dressed for battle with full BDU's and some powerful looking rifles at their sides.  Not to even mention the ominous castle sitting on a jungle mountain top overlooking the city.  It is actually is still being occupied by the military....Sri Nager has an operational castle!!  

          

          Kashmir is the region of India just to the northwestern border with Pakistan. It has been a highly controversal border for many years as Pakistan still claims it belongs to them.  This historical turmoil has led to many rebellions and fights between the two however everyone I spoke with tells me it is now a peaceful place.  
        Otherwise, the city itself however seemed much like your typical Indian village, just with a bit of a mountain folk twist on everything.  For example, the buildings seemed to be made of large timbers and kinda reminded me of a bit more rustic version of the Bavarian style mountain houses.  The people seem a bit different as well. Many in the city were wearing T-shirts with American emblems and the whole place had a slightly slower paced laid back and comfortable feel to it.  

         So when we got to the lake we drove down a small dirt road to get to the entrance of my houseboat.  It's parked with the back deck facing out into the lake and to get aboard we walked down a narrow wooden plank that looked like it was a splinter away from splintering in half!  It was, however, in better shape than the boat off to my left though. My neighbor boat was sitting underwater, and looked more like a boat skeleton!  

          I met Manzoor the boat’s owner and trip organizer and then Abdul Raheem the chef and assistant.  (all of this was for about $15 USD per night by the way).  Manzoor says the neighbor boat is "closed for repairs".   

         My boat, however, is magnificent!  It is made entirely of wood, and feels like a floating log cabin. The floors are covered in carpet, but you can tell they cover some ancient floor boards because every step comes with a loud character adding creek.  The furniture is all beautifully carved walnut that looks like something that is a rare find in an antique shop.  The bed, a magnificent king size in the back of the boat that is covered in warm handmade quilts that looked like something I would see at my grandmother's house. And finally to top the cake the very smell of the place is warm and welcoming...It smells of a sweet mix of wooden timbers and mountain lake water… I think I will enjoy my time here!

*Later that day*

          It has now started to pour the rain outside, making a soft patter as it hits the tin roof of the boat.  It’s about 10:13pm.   Raheem left about 20 minutes ago after cleaning up the delicious dinner he prepared.  He made a vegetable curry and meat curry which were both great!  I am so happy, I can actually eat again!  I had two huge helpings and for the first time in weeks my stomach is fine!

          After dinner Raheem and I talked for a while and he brought out an antiquated looking hookah he calls his "Hubbly Bubbly" and packed it full of sweet Himalayan tobacco.  We sat in the living room for nearly an hour as he smoked and tried to teach me some of the local language.   The area of Kashmir seems to be predominantly, if not entirely, a Muslim area, so naturally the language reflects that with many words and phrases tied to the religion.  Salam Maleku is the common greeting meaning peace be upon you.  

*May 24th. 

About 4:45pm I am once again sitting on the deck of the boat looking out over mist covered mountains as the sounds of religious chants echo across the mountains like a beautiful symphony.  Feels good. Life is good…that is all

*End Excerpts*

          *I kinda slacked off a bit on writing and have way to much left to write to go on word for word.  So the next couple of days can be summarized by awesome, relaxing, and…the following couple paragraphs!

Each morning I awoke to a delicious omelet breakfast, along with some amazing sweet Kashmiri chai all prepared by Raheem.  I spent my mornings reading on the back deck of the boat and writing in my travel log.  Letting time slip by like the quiet breeze on the boat deck. 

  Eventually I took some time to explore the area around me just walking around the streets and stopping in shops. In one shop I discovered a wonderful drink I had never seen before called Rani Root.  It is a peach flavored soda with actual peaches in it!  It’s funny how the small things like a drink can really stick with you….

          While exploring the neighborhood I had the most amazing experience.  One day I was walking about the town, just enjoying the atmosphere, when I was stopped by a friendly looking young Muslim guy, named Javid.  He seems so very excited to meet me and insists that I come see his school right around the corner to meet the students.  I had nothing better to do at the time so thought to myself “why not”.  As we walked, however, I noticed a small crowd forming behind us.  Like a magnet, as we went along the crowd collected girth.  We arrived at a small square and before I knew it I was surrounded by smiling faces all wanting to shake my hand and say hello!  The school is an Islamic school for kids of all ages and I think half the school must have come out to greet me.  Hardly any of them spoke enough English to communicate with me but some did and they all were very friendly.  We snapped a photo together and then Javid took me on a shortcut back to the boat.  Its moments like these where I really can’t imagine where the hatred in this world comes from.  It can only be taught from older generations, for on those young smiling faces I saw nothing but love and excitement.

          I also spent some time out exploring the main part of the city of Sri Nager.  Manzoor planned an itinerary that included visiting some of the beautiful Mogul gardens and a mosque that is among the holiest places in Islam.  The mosque is said to hold the ACTUAL beard of Mohamed, which is brought out for special holiday occasions!  Everything about the place seemed heavily and uniquely reverent.

          The gardens on the other hand are hundreds of years old and are centered on mountain streams that have been built around to form a beautiful symmetrical garden with the backdrop of snow-capped mountains.  The flowers were in full bloom and smelled as sweet and fresh as the mountain air.    

Our final stop was a carpet shop where of course I was told, “No need buy, just look”.  As every store everywhere seems to say.  I couldn’t resist though, the carpets are all handmade out of silks and Kashmir wool on machines that have been used for over 100 years!  The say that each pattern has a song that is sung as the carpet is knotted to help the knotter to remember the pattern...hearing one of those is on my list for my next visit.  Now I just need a nice study where I can put a carpet…

I spent the evening exploring the town more and sitting on the boat deck.  At one point a traveling merchant named Mr. Marvelous paddled his boat up to my deck.  He says he is traveling around the lake peddling Kashmiri flowers and seeds of the finest quality.  Friendly guy, Mr Marvelous, but I didn't need any flowers at the moment.

That night Raheem made another delicious dinner of two types of curry, this time with homemade cheese! He then brought over his “hubbly bubbly” and smoked as we attempted a to play cards.  He tried to teach me a game called 10 cards but I am still not quite sure the objective or who actually won…This language barrier can be tough sometimes…  I tried to teach him blackjack but I think I got the same results from him.  Finally I thought it a great idea to bring out my harmonica, which Raheem instantly took a loving to and played/sang an old Kashmiri hymn that I did not get a word of….Twas a good night.

          The next morning was a bit rainy so I relaxed around the boat most of it.  I needed a good rest up anyway.  After my omelet breakfast Manzoor came by and tells me he has some exciting news!  He says that I have been invited to attend the wedding of one of Raheem’s nephews!  I am thrilled to participate and eagerly except.  He tells me we will leave early the next day and spend the night in Raheem’s hometown!
  

         

The next morning I wake up excited and ready to go.  Raheem and I catch a rickshaw into the center of town where he says he needs to get a few things before we leave.  We end up spending the next HOUR picking through an endless open air market of food!  This place had everything from potatoes and peppers, to lambs eyeballs and hooves!  We shopped until both of our arms were full of groceries and I think we must have gotten a little bit of everything, including the lamb hooves! 

         

After our shopping we hopped into the back of a transport jeep that was so packed that we rode knee to knee with our fellow travelers for the entire two hour long ride before finally reaching a small set of houses in the middle of a rice paddy filled countryside.  We had made it to Raheem’s home place. 

         

I believe I met the entire family over the course of this night!  It was absolutely wonderful!  First Raheem introduced me to his sister-in-law and brother and his niece, nicknamed “Shorty”.  Then we walked towards town, where Raheem seemed to know everyone in the area.  All of his friends walked in from the rice paddies to say hello as we went by. And everyone was excited to see who he had brought home with him. 

We made it to the center of the small one road town and went down a small alley until we reached a large colorful tent set up beside a house.  This was the wedding hall!  Everyone again was very friendly and excited to see Raheem and myself.  We even organized for a group selfie!

 I was shown around to see all of the busy wedding preparations.  There was a tree by the river where they were skinning a lamb and another tent full of cooks hammering the meat into meatballs,  On the porch a group of women sat playing the drums and singing.  It was really a happy vibe all over.

After meeting at least a hundred family members I met Raheem's brother-in-law Parvez.  I got to know this man well over this couple of days and am happy I did so.  He welcomed me into his house with open arms and generosity.
    After an hour or so of excellent conversation Parvez insist on showing me Manesbald lake, which the city is well known for.  We took his car and drove until we reached a lake resting between monumental snow-capped mountains towering over a beautiful Mogul garden and the ruins of an ancient fort on the lakeside.  We walked around a bit before taking the car up one of the mountains for an aerial view before the sun set.

After driving back I met up with Raheem again and we went to the wedding tent to enjoy a special wedding dinner.  I was invited to sit among the elders as we ate and shared a traditional four person plate of rice with a lamb curry. We each rinsed our right hands in a silver dish that was passed around and then each picked a corner and scooped up a mouthful.  Really, eating rice by hand is not nearly as difficult as it may seem to the western world.  I think I was finally getting the technique down after 3 weeks in India.


After dinner I was led to a seat of honor on the edge of the tent.  All the women of what looked like the entire village were seated on the ground in the middle of the tent and were engaging in a cheerful song and playing drums.  

This went on for a couple of hours until eventually a band was brought in along with a couple of traditional Kashmiri dancers!  The dancers were two males dressed in a traditional dresses with bells on their legs and scarves they twirled in the air.  As the colorful clothes twirled in the center of the tent and the crowd around them sang and cheered them on, I thought to myself, just wow, this is what traveling is all about.  Experiencing the real lives of real people participating in their own unique tradition that exist only within their unique way of life...not a bad way to spend the night!  
 


The next day I woke up to an amazing omelet breakfast prepared by Parvez's family.  It was even prepared with some local spices that were like none I had tried before!  Wish I knew what they were but may have to remain in the memory bank.  We talked and enjoyed the morning for while just sitting in his living room.  Eventually Raheem came by and says we have a boat ride to catch!  We walk back to his house, which conveniently is right on the edge of the river.  
He had a small canoe tied up to his back porch.  We paddled down a small river overhung with trees that made a sort of green tunnel as we rode, until eventually we reached the lake.  The water was full of lotus plants and the air full of eagles and kingfishers looking for prey. But when sitting in the middle, in a moment of perfect peace, the majestic beauty of this place is truly revealed, as the water turns quiet and the lake becomes a mirror reflecting the powerful peaks above.  What a beautiful World!

The final big event of the wedding was a the giant wedding feast.  This again was served on a large silver plate and intended to be eaten in a group of four.  The rice was the base for all dishes but as the feast went on the plate was refilled with various curries and entrees.  Imagine a mountain of rice, and a curry on top, that is eaten until either the curry or the rice is gone and then the mountain is rebuilt for the next course!  And the same for the next 5 or more courses it seemed the food just kept on coming!  So Much Delicious food!  

 

 After all of this celebration Raheem and I were headed home to the houseboat.  It had been a remarkable excursion and experience but there was much more to explore in this mountainous region of beauty, like the mountains for instance... TO BE CONTINUED!  Tomorrow night in this continued publishing spree!  Thanks for Reading!!